


MRS. D. A. INWOOD'S 



BOOK OF INSTRUCTIONS 



pX EIVE MEASUKE SYSTEM OF 
DRE8S CUTTING, 

FOR CLTTINC; 

LADIES' AND CHILDREN'S DRESSES, BASQUES, BOY'S 
CLOTHING, AND GENTLEMEN'S SHIRTS. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in- the year ISti.S, by Mrs. D. A. 
In wood, in the Clerk's Office of the Dist. Court of the Dist. of Mass. 



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BOST N : 
ALFRED MFDGKE & SON, Prikters, 34 Schoojl Street. 

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ADVERTISEMENT. 



I, having worked as a practical Dress Maker for over 20 years, 
and learned the various systems now in use, and taught one 
of them for the last three years, seeing the necessity of a more 
perfect system, I now offer mine to the public and only ask a 
fair trial, as I am confident of its being pronounced the most 
perfect system ever invented. I deem further remarks unneces- 
sary, as it will speak for itself. 

I want 500 smart and energetic Ladies to act as local and trav- 
eling Agents throughout the United States. They can easily 
clear six hundred dollars a year, if diligent to business. 

All who wish to engage in this business will please address, 

Mrs. D. A. Inwood, East Somerville, Mass., inclosing a three 

cent stamp. 

D. A. INWOOD. 



PRICE OF DIAGRAMS. 



Tor 100,830.00; for 50, $17,50; for 25, $10.00; 
for 12, $6.00, and all less than 12, $1.00 each. 
The Book of Instructions and Tape Measures are 
included. 

No Agents are allowed to undersell me, as by so 
doing they forfeit their agency. 

Price of teaching Dress Cutting $2.50, and the 
whole $5.00. I state this so that all may know 
what to depend upon. It will make it better for 
Agents, as ladies will see that they can learn as 
cheap from agents as from myself. 



Directions for Taking Measures. 

First, take the size of the chest above the bust, meeting 
the tape straight across the shoulder-blades so that the 
lady may breathe freely. This will be as tight as required. 
Next, take the breast measure straight above the bust, the 
lady's shoulders being thrown back in order to get a broad 
chest measure, and set half the number of inches down. 
Next, take a back measure, the lady standing naturally. 
Measure straight across the shoulder-blades, and set half 
the number of inches down. Next, take a waist measure, 
which must be taken tight, and set it down. Next, measure 
the length of waist, from under the arm down to the waist, 
and allow the width of seam. 



Directions for Drafting the Front of Dress. 

If a lady's chest measures 32 inches, breast 18, waist 24, 
and length of waist 8, first double the lining, and draw a 
line l£ inch from the selvage, to allow for hem. Next, lay 
the front scale on the line, and dot on the line corresponding 
with chest measure, and in the hole for neck corresponding 
with chest, and on the line for lower part of neck. Next, 
draw the neck with neck rule. Draw the shoulder with 
front shoulder rule, placing the point of rule on the neck 
dot, touching the lower dot. Next, measure from front 
line to lower dot, and make it half the width of breast 
measure. Next, place the number of arm size, the same 
as chest, upon the upper dot, and have it touching lower 



dot, and draw to number 2 on the arm size. For all num- 
bers under 26, draw to number 1 ; all under 33, draw to 
number 2 ; all under 40, draw to number 3 ; and all over 
40, draw to number 4. Next, get the length of waist (8 
inches), and draw bottom of waist to 24 on front waist 
scale. Next, get the length of bias, measuring 2 3 inches 
below the arm size, and 4 5 on the front line ; then draw a 
line for the height of bias, making the front bias 3 5 inches 
from front line, and back bias three inches from front bias 
on upper line, and front bias 1| inch on waist line, leaving 
the biases half an inch apart, allowing nine inches for 
biases. Make the back bias always the largest, adding the 
width of biases beyond the waist measure. Draw the un- 
der arm seam with bias rule, point up ; then draw the curve 
on the hip with bias rule. Biases must be varied according 
to the form of the lady. If three biases are required, divide 
them into three equal parts, the front biases only 2£ inches 
from front line at top, and l£ on lower line. 



Directions for Drafting the Back. 

First, double the lining ; then lay the back rule on the 
lining, and dot at the line corresponding with chest measure, 
and on the line for neck. Next, lift the scale and measure 
straight across the back, to lower dot, making the width of 
back half the back measure, then lay number 1 of back 
arm size on lower dot, touching upper dot, and draw from 
number 3 to upper dot. Next, get the length of waist, 
which is 8 inches, and draw the bottom of back with back 
waist measure to 24. Draw under arm seam with bias rule 
point up. Then form side seam in the back with basque 
rule. If the lady is hollow in back, take up a seam half 
an inch deep in middle of back. To cut a low neck, get 



the length of shoulder, and dot it on the back and front 
shoulder seams. Draw the front with basque rule, and back 
with bias rule. 



Directions for Cutting a Pan Waist. 

This waist is cut plain on the shoulders and full at the 
waist. Draw neck and shoulder the same as lining. Place 
the arm size on upper dot and slip it back one inch from 
lower dot, in order to have a graceful front, and draw to 4 
on the arm size, allowing two inches more for fullness than 
you have in biases ; gather it and baste it on your front ; 
have one inch less cloth in length on your front line of out- 
side, so it will not sag. The beauty of a full waist consists 
in having the outside sit smooth. You often see dresses 
made well except this fault of sagging in front. 



Directions for Cutting the Back. 

First lay back lining on the outside and cut it one inch 
broader across the shoulders and three inches on the waist. 
Gather and baste it on the lining. After it is basted, trim 
the outside to the lining and baste front and back together. 
Fit it on the lady. It is easy to make alterations, if 
required, but with care it is very seldom you will have any 
to make. 



Directions for Cutting Sleeves. 

If a plain sleeve is required, have the arm bent. Measure 

from the shoulder, over the elbow, to the wrist, and on the 

inside of arm and round the wrist. Set your number of 

inches down, and cut it according to measure. It is weU 

1* 



to take measures always for length of sleeve, as you will 
save time and cloth by so doing. 



Directions for Measuring Skirts. 

Measure from bottom of waist, and if a sweep is required, 
make it one inch longer. Next, take the hips, right and 
left, as most ladies will take a skirt longer on one hip than 
on the other. Next, take front measure and have it quite 
short, so it will give a handsome sweep. Always make two 
halves of the skirt, putting half a yard more fullness in the 
back. In this way you wiU have a skirt hang weU. 



Directions for Cutting Yoke. 

Draw a line on the front lining two inches below lower 
dot on arm size, to front line, and one inch below the point 
of shoulder on back arm size, to middle of back. This will 
give a deep yoke. If thick goods and outside plaited, it 
must be twice as full as lining ; if gathered, not so full. 



Directions for Children's Dresses. 

Take the same measure as for ladies. Have the lining 
double, and lay front scale on the lining and dot in the 
holes corresponding with chest measure, and dot in the 
hole for neck, and line for lower part of neck. Place 
number 2 of neck on the front and draw the neck. Next, 
place number 2 of front shoulder rule on neck dot and 
draw to lower dot. Place number of arm size correspond- 
ing with chest on upper dot and draw to 1. Next, get the 
height of biases i^ inch from bottom of arm size, and 2£ 
inches on the front line, and 2 on waist line ; aUow 1 inch 



for width of biases. Draw the under arm seam with bias 
rule, placing number 2 of rule on the bottom of arm size 
and allow 1 inch for width of seam under the arm. Draw 
the back the same as for ladies, only allow 1^ inch for 
width of hem. Sew the hooks and eyes 1 inch apart, 
leaving the eye side half an inch broader than hook side. 
This will bring the lap in the centre of back. 



Directions for Boy's Clothes. 

For a Full Waist or Spencer. 
If a boy measures 25 inches around the the chest, 13 
across the breast, 12 on the back, 24 around the waist and 
length of waist 6, draw it the same as for children's dresses, 
only make the back waist 26, and front 22. This gives a 
broader back. Allow 2 inches for fullness on the back, 3 
inches on the front and 2 inches on the lower part of waist, 
instead of a belt. Plait or gather, according to fancy. 
Under the buttons, stay it with tape. Cut a full sleeve for 
this waist and gather it into a band at the wrist. 



Pants to Correspond with Spencer Waist 
Measuring 24 Inches. 

If a boy measures 28 inches in length of leg, 16 around 
the ankle, from ankle to crutch 21, from ankle to knee 13, 
around the knee 18, from crutch around the thigh to top 
of thigh bone, 22 ; from crutch to top of waist 8, width of 
front 8, length of back 10 and width of back 10 ; draft 
the lines on cloth according to measure, to get a good 
slope ; place the basque rule 2 inches from back arm size 
on crutch, dot touching knee line ; turn basque rule over 
and place it 1 inch from back arm size on crutch, dot and 
darw to waist dot. Make length of fly 6 inches and stay 



it with lining. Draft the seat of pants with bias rule, 
placing number 2 of rule on crutch dot, touching waist 
dot, and draw top of back with bias rule, placing number 
2 of rule on the back, and draw to outside of leg ; plait 
back and front in three plaits. Have the waistband 2 
inches wide and button holes to correspond with buttons 
on waist. Measures must be taken as loose as the pants are 
required. If for large boys, cut without fullness, if too 
large to have pants buttoned on the waist. 



Directions for Drafting a Boy's Zouave 
Jacket. 

If a boy measures 26 inches around the chest, breast 13, 
back 12, length of shoulder 6, size of waist 25, and length 
of waist 10, lay the cloth on the table double, not allowing 
for hem, as this garment is bound. Draft neck and 
shoulder the same as dress. After the shoulder is drawn, 
place the square end of the bias rule on neck dot, and dot 
at number 6 on shoulder line. Place number 26 of boys 
arm size on shoulder dot, even with breast dot, and draw to 
number 2 on arm size. Next, get length of waist 10 inches. 
Next, get size of waist, and allow 1 inch over the measure 
for front and back, in order to have it hang loose. Draw 
the bottom of front with basque rule, and the bottom of 
back with bias rule. Draw to number 3 on back arm size. 
Cut the sleeve by a fashionable pattern. This garment is 
to be worn with shirt or waist. 



Directions for Drafting a Boy's Jacket. 

If a boy's chest measures 28 inches, breast 14^, back 13, 
length of shoulder 7, size of waist 27, length of waist 8, 



draft the front first, and allow it three inches longer below 
bottom of waist line for length of skirt and let it curve out 
half an inch from waist line to bottom of skirt. This curve 
is got with bias rule, and if square in front, draw it with 
bias rule, if round, with basque rule. Draw the curve for 
pocket with basque rule. 



Directions for Drafting the Back. 

Draw neck and shoulder the same as front. Draw back 
arm size to number 1 . Next, get length of waist 8 inches. 
Place the square end of bias rule on back line and draw the 
centre of back 2 inches wide on waist line. Next, place 
basque rule on arm size dots, and draw to bottom of waist 
line. Slip the rule 1 inch down and draw the skirt half an 
inch wider on both lines of skirt than waist line. Get side 
piece with basque rule, and make it three sizes larger than 
front at the bottom of back. Draw the bottom of skirt 
with bias rule. 



Directions for Gutting the Jacket Sleeve. 

If the arm measures 18 inches over the elbow, 15 on the 
inside, 14 at the shoulder, and 10 at the wrist, first draw 
the outside line 18 inches and make a dot in the center of 
line for elbow. Draw a line 6^ inches for width of sleeve 
at elbow. Next, get length of sleeve, (15 inches) having 
7h each side of elbow line and 5 inches for size of wrist, 
and 7 for top of sleeve. Form the top of sleeve with 
basque rule, and with the same, hollow out the under part 
of sleeve. This sleeve can be cut without a seam on the 
inside, if preferred. 



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Directions for Cutting a Boy's Sack Coat. 

Take measures the same as for jacket, omitting the waist 
measure. Draft neck, shoulder and arm size the same as 
jacket. Place the square end of bias on front line even 
with arm size dot, and see how many inches it measures 
from front to under arm seam, and allow 2 inches more for 
fullness on the bottom of skirt. Draw the under arm seam 
with bias rule, and bottom of skirt with the same. Draft 
the back the same as front, and allow l£ inch at the bottom 
for fullness. Draft the sleeve the same as for jacket. This 
garment may be worn with or without the collar. 



Directions for Drafting a Girl's Sack Cloak. 

Take two measures — chest and length of skirt. Take a 
loose chest measure. If the chest measures 27 inches and 
length of skirt 20, place the front scale on the front line 
and dot on the corresponding lines for neck and chest. 
Draw neck and shoulder the same as girl's dress. Place 27 
of arm size on the upper dot and slip it back half an inch 
from lower dot, in order to have it hang loose. Next, take 
length of skirt (20 inches), and dot for length of skirt. Next, 
place the square end of bias rule on the front line and meas- 
ure to the end of arm size, and allow 7 inches for fullness on 
the bottom line. Draw the under arm and bottom seams 
with bias rule. Draft the back the same as front, and allow 
6 inches for fullness on the bottom of skirt. Cut the sleeve 
and collar according to the fashion. 

Ladies' Sack Cloaks are cut in the same way, allowing 
fullness in proportion to the size of person. 



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Directions for Drafting a Basque. 

Draft waist part the same as dress, only three-fourths of 
an inch shorter, and make the biases straighter than for 
dresses. Place the square end of bias rule at the bottom 
of frill, having it extend straight up to the top of bias, and 
make a dot at the center of bias rule, placing the point of 
bias rule on the line at the bottom of each side of bias and 
draw to frill dot. Next, get length of frill on the hips. If 
the length of frill is 6 inches make it 5 inches fuller at the 
bottom than it is at the waist line. Draw the frill with bias 
rule, and take up a seam at the bottom of waist from under 
arm seam to back bias. In this way the front will sit well. 
Draft the back of basque the same on neck and shoulders 
as dress. Draw the back arm size to number 1. Next, 
take length of waist from bottom of arm size, making the 
center piece three-fourths of an inch shorter than length of 
waist, as it will be too long if cut the same length as waist 
measures under the arm, it being cut by a curve rule. 
Place the point of basque rule at the bottom of arm size 
and draw to waist line, making the frill 5 inches wide at 
the bottom and 1 inch on the waist line. Draft the friU 
with bias rule. Next, get the side piece, placing basque 
on a straight line, and draw rest of back arm size, and 
curve to waist line. Next, get length of waist from bottom 
of arm size, the same as front, and allow 4 inches at the 
bottom of side piece for fullness. Make the back of basque 
3 sizes broader than front at the bottom of waist, taking it 
off the front ; this wiU bring the seam weU under the arm, 
which is necessary for aU jacket waists. 



12 



Directions for Taking Shirt Measures. 

Take the chest measure loose. Next, take the hreast and 
back measure, size of neck, length of shoulder, length of 
arm from shoulder to wrist, size of wrist and size of arm 
at the shoulder. 



Directions for Drafting the Front. 

Double the cloth, and dot at the lines corresponding with 
chest measure. Next, get length of shoulder. Draw neck 
and shoulder the same as boy's jacket. Place basque rule 
on shoulder dot, and draw to bottom of arm size, making 
the arm size 4 inches larger than the arm measures round. 
Set the bosom in and hollow it out by the piece that comes 
out of the front of neck. 



Directions for Drafting the Back. 

Double the cloth, placing the back scale on the cloth, 
and dot at the lines corresponding with chest measure. 
Draw the shoulder and neck the same as boy's jacket. 
Place the basque rule on shoulder dot, and draw to bottom 
of arm size. The back must be cut wider than front. It 
is weU to face it two inches below the arm size. Cut the 
sleeve to suit yourself. This cuts a plain sack shirt. If a 
yoke is preferred, it can be cut by allowing two inches of 
the front part of neck, and two inches at the arm size. 
This will bring the seam well over in front. If the neck is 
not as large as required, cut it out all around, as it is apt 
to be too high in the neck.____ 




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